Elcombe hamlet, not a tragic Shakespearean hamlet:

Elcombe hamlet consists of about 11 houses.  Known as a hamlet due to its size, which is smaller than a village and as it does not contain a church.  Elcombe is picturesque with stone houses built with local stone, set against a backdrop of green valleys.  

This hamlet is built on fossilised limestone and remnants of a stone quarry still exits. It was once common for local villages to have their own quarry. After a short train journey from London and taxi ride from Stroud, we arrived at the cottage. Our base for the next few days was a traditional stone house with an outdoor area and a beautiful garden overlooking woodlands and farmlands.  

Springfield cottage: 

After settling in at the cottage, we wander out to find a local pub. Our first impression is that the Elcombe hamlet is popular with creatives. The locals are friendly and welcoming, waving as we pass by their houses.  We do a quick search for the local drinking hole, we make our way to the Woolpack pub.

A short walk from the hamlet, uphill into the Slad valley. This small pub is very popular with the locals and we were disappointed to find they are fully booked for dinner. We can have drinks outside in the courtyard though. The bar lady recommends we booking in advance if you want a reservation for dinner the next day. We decide to continue our walk over the rolling hills into Stroud central. The views and stillness walking along the country road is absolute bliss, with only a few black sheep inquisitively walking to fence to see who these passers byes are.  

At least an hour and a half after we first set out, we find an Italian restaurant, Sorrento, that catches our eye. There is a chill in the air and after a very long walk, a glass of wine with some comfort food is what we need. I order the local favourite dish, a seafood risotto, cooked al dente, a perfect meal to end the day. Its dark when we head back and we decide to catch a taxi from Stroud back to Elcombe. Our taxi drops us at the entrance to the Hamlet and we walk back in the dark down to the cottage.   

Elcombe’s natural morning alarm: 

The next morning, we wake up to the sound of a Woodpecker, drumming away in the woodlands. We head downstairs to make coffee and breakfast and have it outside. In the distance wild rabbits are running across the fields, judging by their numbers, they are thriving in this area.  

We soak up the morning sun from the terrace. It’s so peaceful, we take in the serenity. Our host is delighted to find us enjoying the outdoor space. He informs us that we can explore the Woodlands across the road. After a few hours of reading, we pack a light bag with snacks and wine and head for the hills.

The entrance to the woodlands is a few steps away from the cottage. We walk along the path and make our way to the top of the hill, for views over the valley and Gloucestershire below. It’s the perfect spot for a picnic, even though it is Autumn and slightly cold. The views are breathe taking despite the wind.  

The local stone quarry:

We continue exploring and stumble across an old stone quarry. Much to my husband’s delight, he finds some fossils set in the limestone. We head back to the top of the hill to watch the sunset. When the sun has set, we walk back to the cottage through the Woodlands, treading carefully in the dark.  

Later in the evening, we make use of the lack of light to experiment taking night photographs. Other than an owl in the distance and some few rabbits running across the farmlands, you can hear a pin drop.  

From Elcombe to Bisley and back: 

The next morning our host kindly offers us some great tips for things to do in the area. We decide to take his advice and visit the next village, Bisley. We explore the area by foot because we would like to take in the fresh country air and sites. Bisley is best explored by taking a leisurely stroll through the village. The quaint parish is a beautiful village with the typical stone houses for which the Cotswolds is known. We have lunch at the local pub and then continue taking in the historic sites and buildings.  

We make our way back to Elcombe. This is a bit of a hair-raising walk along a country road, which takes about 40 minutes to Elcombe. We only stop to pat some horses along route, acknowledging strangers in the area and wanting a head rub. The road has no pavement or hard shoulder and barely space for one car to pass. We are grateful when we finally get to the end of this road, when we are back in Elcombe.  

Stroud: 

It is our last day in Elcombe. In a flash our idyllic break is coming to an end. We spend the last few hours exploring Stroud. We stumble across an antique market in town, visit the cathedral and discover Stroud has a canal. Canals and towpaths are a feature of the Stroud valleys. As much as we still want to explore, we are running out of time and need to head to Stroud train station to catch our train back to London. I suppose we will have to explore the canals some other time.  

After a few days in fresh country air, we are sad to leave Elcombe. As the train leaves the station, I am already thinking about exploring more of the Cotswolds. The journey takes just under 2 hours on a slower train from Stroud to London. 

Until next time. Adventure awaits.  

Kim

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Located on the banks of the Targus river, Belem, a green residential suburb is rich in Portugese history and historically was the departure point for many Portugese explorers and caravels. Currently it is home to monuments, museums, an abundance of green outdoor spaces and modern laid back cafes.

Tourist attractions:

The seafaring heritage is visible from the landmarks in the area, with the monument to discoveries and memorial to travellers, located in the middle of the Targus River promenade. The striking Padrão dos Descobrimentos, an imposing moment was built to mark the 500^th anniversary of Infante Henry the Navigator and features the bow of a caravel with other prominent explorers. You can access a viewing platform at the top of the monument, which offers views of the Targus river and Belem.

Belem’s most famous landmark, Torre de Belem, dates back to early 1500’s. Belem Tower was built as a defensive fortress to guard the port and protect the city of Lisbon. Head to the tower late afternoon and you will find yourself surrounded by both locals and tourists, waiting for the sun to set from the shore behind this famous backdrop.

Belem is a more relaxed pace than bustling Lisbon. (Other than inside Fabrica Pasteis de Belem off course) Walking along the promenade, take in the sights, sunshine and fresh air. We spent the day in Belem. If you have time on your way back to Lisbon, I suggest going to LX Factory for drinks or dinner. It’s a trendy area ( similar to the Biscuit Mill in Cape Town or Shoreditch / Hackney Wick in London) LX Factory. Old industrial area converted to a modern eatery and hangout.

Chocolate:

I did not have to search very long for chocolate in Belem when I stumbled across Arcadia Casa do Chocolate. It is located in the town centre, close to Pasteis de Belem. I tried some Porto filled chocolates and chocolate gelato. This was one of the best gelato’s I’ve had in Europe and the shop assistant was so friendly, she even gave us some tips for local attractions! This chocolate shop is definitely worth stopping at!

Trying Pasteis de Belem:

You will find one of the oldest bakeries and most well known bakeries in Belem. Pasteis de Belem is located next to Jeronimos Monastery. While you can try custard tarts all over Portugal, Pateis de Belem is the most entrenched in Portugese history. Pastéis de Belém was first made in 1837, using an ancient recipe handed down from the Mosterio dos Jerónimos. The same recipe is used today and the pasteis de nata (custard tarts) are still hand made using traditional methods.

If you want to sink your teeth into Belem’s most famous portuguese custard tarts expect very long queues to get them. While most tourists queue to order take aways, there is an option is sit down inside the cafe as well. You may be served quicker inside the cafe than queuing in peak times. The cafe with its blue and white Azure interiors are decorated in the old Portuguese style, making for a more authentic experience and buzzing with excitement for many a tourist having a first bite of the famous custard tart.

We paid 3.45 Euro for 3 tarts, and had them traditionally served, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, accompanied with coffee, just how the locals like them.

Tip. If you are going to be in the area for the day, we found going back to Pasteis de Belem after 6pm the queues were a lot become shorter. Thousands of custard tarts are freshly baked throughout the day at Pastéis de Belém, so you will have plenty of time to try them if you get there later.

Take a stroll along the Targus River:

Take a stroll along the promenade and take in the sights of the Targus river. The most notable landmark is Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. This red painted bridge spans the Tragus river at its narrowest point is visible from the promenade.

There are other contemporary buildings and architecture which reflects modern Portugal. The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology are one of this buildings. It has a viewing area at roof level and a bridge which connects the city and the waterfront.

Finding your way around Belem:

After disembarking at Belem station we walked to the centre of town. There are buses you can take as well. I prefer walking also offers the opportunity to find architectural gems but did not expect to do as much as we did in one day. Finding chocolate shops, beautiful azulejos tiled hallways of residential buildings hidden behind doors and ports shops.

Overall this was a day well spent, I highly recommend visiting Belem if you are in Lisbon for a few days.

How to get there from Lisbon:

We took the train from Cais do Sodre, which is connected to Lisbon’s metro. As Belem is located outside Lisbon city centre, metro day passes will not be valid on the train, so we paid an extra 1.50 Euro’s for a one way train ticket. Belem is a short 10 minute train journey from Lisbon. There are options to take trams and buses from Lisbon, which we opted not to take due to longer travel times.

See my previous posts on Lisbon for more information on this city and where to eat.

Until next time, more adventure awaits!

Kim

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Some of the best eateries in the city can be found in the iconic areas in Lisbon. The Bohemian Bairro Alto area offers great restaurants and the Chiado area, typical cafes and more elegant dining or food experiences.

My food experience started at our first stop, the local supermarket. Whenever I visit a city, I normally have a browse around the local supermarket, to get an idea of local produce. My favourite item from the bakery was health bread rolls with seeds and fruit which I had as a breakfast snack.  

Portugal in a can:

Portuguese people love sardines. Canned sardines are a national icon and part of the city’s culinary heritage. You can find canned sardines in various stores in Lisbon, from the local supermarket to speciality canned fish stores. One of the more well-known brands is Conserveira de Lisboa for its colourful unique vintage designs. I tried sardines in spicy oil, the chilly was subtle and the sardines was not too pungent.

If you would like fresh sardines, the best time to visit Lisbon is between June and October, when it is in season. If you order sardines out of season, it will be canned or frozen. Canned fish is making its way back onto the menu at trendy cafes and restaurants.

Canned Fish:

There are various other canned seafood and fish, from whole fish to pates to try. Choose from Tuna, Anchovy, Octopus and Salmon, just to name a few, and they come in a variety of flavours. Dedicated canned fish shops can be found in the throughout the city. If you want to take a piece of Portugal home with you, this is the perfect item to take with you.

Bacalhau: Lisbon on a plate

The term Bacalhau refers to dried and Salted Cod. Salted Cod is very common in Portugal. In fact, it is so common that it is known as a national obsession. This national Portuguese dish is predominantly served over holidays like Christmas. There are various ways the locals cook them, and there are hundreds of ways to serve it, which can be seen when visiting local eateries.  

Pastel de Nata:

These Portuguese tarts with a custard egg filling, served in a pastry shell, are a local delight. Baked to perfection at 200 degrees, it is traditionally served dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar. They are eaten throughout the day, for breakfast, lunch, as a snack or after dinner. They can be bought from bakeries all over town, and with a bakery around nearly every corner, you will have no problem finding a spot to try them.

Portuguese Fortified Wine:

No visit to Portugal is complete without sampling Port of course. They are the words largest producers of Port. There a so many types to choose from, so I would recommend visiting a Port house. I tried a speciality Port as well as Port chocolate.

Trying the local cuisine:

For our first dinner in the city, we headed to Bairro Alto in search of a good Portugese food. This area came recommended by the locals at our hotel as one of the best areas to try local Portuguese cuisine. There were many restaurants to choose from, but we found one in Rua da Rosa street that was filled with locals only. (Restaurante e Cervejaria O Cantinho da Rosa)

We had some of the breads, cheese and pate to start, which was very good. I really enjoyed the variety of fish/seafood pates. I had fish with salad for dinner, mandatory cuisine in a Mediterranean city!

Sea Me Restaurant:

The next restaurant we tried was a contemporary restaurant located in the old town. It is a favourite with locals and tourists alike. They serve a fusion of Portuguese and Japanese cuisine. We opted to try the traditional Portuguese dishes.

You can select your own freshly caught fish and various other types of seafood from the fridge. The fresh seafood was sold per kilogram. Your waiter will explain the process to first time patrons.  

I had scallops as a starter, which was cooked perfectly and served with mango relish and sweet corn. For mains I had to try salted cod. The cod was served with traditional Portuguese Potatoes with a lemon oil dressing.

I had a local green wine with dinner. Despite is name, green wine (Vino Verde), is not green in colour, it looks like white wine, but it is made from young grapes instead. It is a crisp aromatic wine with a low alcohol percentage and easy to drink. It pairs well with seafood. Green wine should be consumed soon after it is bottled and is commonly served in restaurants.  

In terms of price, Sea Me is an above average but worth every cent spent on dinner! I rated the scallops as the best dish I had in Lisbon. The restaurant is located in the centre of town and within walking distance of the metro.

We nearly missed trying out this restaurant and we thought it was a more of plush bar when we walked by as it has a champagne and oyster bar and display area in the street front display. I later discovered this was a restaurant which a Portuguese colleague recommended.

TimeOut Market

This market is located in Cais do Sodre, in the outskirts of town, part of the regenerated area. The historic hall in the city is now a food hall thanks to TimeOut. This large food court is larger than Spitalfields market in London or the Biscuit Mill in Cape Town. The quality of food is amazing and it has a buzzing vibe.

You can try various artisanal produce, local restaurants serving their best or local food stalls. This is perfect if you would like to try the food in a more relaxed setting and with no dress code. We got to the market at 11am on the last day of our stay in Portugal, and what an experience! It was brimming with people and by 12pm there was nearly no free seats!

What food is on offer?

The market is the perfect place to try local cuisine such as Bacalhau (salted cod) or canned sardines. I tried cod fritters as a lighter lunch option, which I thoroughly enjoyed. My friend had Octopus as it was served in many of the stalls/restaurants. We finished our lunch with some pasteis de nata for dessert and bought canned fish from one of the stalls to take home as souvenirs. There were various artisan stalls selling cakes and chocolates, which we also tried.

For me the TimeOut market is a mandatory stop in Lisboa. I loved that you have so many options to choose from and can try different speciality dishes from award winning chefs without the expense of a formal dining experience in a typical restaurant. The market is located close to the metro and is very easy to get to. You can go for brunch, lunch, drinks or dinner, as it is open until from 10am to 12am weekdays and 2am over the weekend.

My must try food:

Salted cod was my favourite fish dishes and Pasteis de Natas was my favourite dessert. I highly recommend trying these custard tarts, but be warned, they are addictive. I have a sweet tooth, so I ate them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

A tip for dining out in Lisbon:

You will find that most restaurants in Lisbon place a breadbasket with cheese, pate etc on the table. It is not complimentary. Ask the waiter before you tuck into that delicious freshly baked bread rolls. Some are priced per basket (even if you only eat one item) and other restaurants price it per individual item. We discovered this at the first restaurant we had dinner at, as we were charged for the entire basket, even though we only tried one item!

Hope you enjoyed this food guide. The last of my 3 part series on my Lisbon adventures and visiting Belem, to follow. Until next time, Adventure awaits.

Kim

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After relocating to the UK a few months ago, going to Lisbon was spur of the moment trip. I was looking for somewhere to fly to, within a short distance from London, to escape the English rain, and sunshine had to be a given!

The stunning capital of Portugal was the perfect destination. Unfolding over seven hills, this city offers a rich history, beautiful Mediterranean cuisine, glorious weather and a combination of historic and modern architecture.

Old town:

Lisbon is known for its artistic flair, visible in every part of town, from street art to electric bars. Quiet by day and lively at night, Rua da Rosa street is one of the best-known streets in the Bairro Alto neighbourhood. (Not to be mistaken for the Instagram famous pink street, which is a different street) This narrow-cobbled street is known for its hypnotic bars and bohemian restaurants. We had dinner at one of the restaurants, mostly frequented by locals.

Old Town by foot:

Stroll down the cobbled stoned lined streets and lanes to find a rugged old town landscape that will have you wandering from secluded courtyards overlooking medieval quarters to terraces where you can take in the whole city. These cobbled lanes are postcard perfect by day and seamlessly transforms into a party scene at night.

The Yellow Tram:

Rattling along the steep hills, you’ll find the classic yellow tram. If travelling in a vintage mode of transport appeals to you, try the Tram 28 E, which takes you around the centre of town. The 28 tram is very popular with tourists, so expect long queues. At Martim Moniz station you have a better chance of getting onto the tram or finding a seat. Sadly, pickpockets do operate on this tram as it is a tourist magnet, so you need to look after your personal belongings. There are alternative trams other than tram 28. We walked to Praça do Comércio or Terreiro do Paco, as it is locally known, and took other trams from there.

Azulegos Tiles:

Portugal is famous for its Azulegos tiles, which is an inherent part of the culture. The elaborately painted tiles are a dominant feature on many residential building’s museums and metro stations. While the tiles fell out of favour, a revival in the 1950’s means you can find modern tile artwork dotted around Lisbon.

Pastel de Nata:

This is a Portuguese tart with an custard egg filling, served in a pastry shell. Baked to perfection at 200 degrees, it is traditionally served dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar. There are bakeries all over town to try them from, and with a bakery around nearly every corner, you will have no problem finding a spot to try them. While some of the larger and Instagram famous bakeries have long queues of tourist wanting to try their pastries, a lesser known local bakery won the award for the best pasteis de natas. Proof that you don’t have to queue for the best pasteis in town! After trying them in supermarkets, local bakeries, my favourite pastel de nata were the ones I bought at Fabrica da Nata, in the Old town.

Architecture:

Campo Pequeno:

This iconic monument of Lisbon is located in the historic Baixa district. It is built in the Neo-Arabic architecture style. (Campo Pequeno translates into small field) It is located behind Campo Pequeno square. The bullring underwent extensive renovations and re-opened in 2006. While Campo Pequeno is the bullring building of Lisbon it also serves as an event venue. At the time of our visit, there was an exhibition of traditional matador and Spanish clothing. The building houses a shops at lower ground, including a supermarket and souvenir stores, some selling typical Portuguese souvenirs like canned fish, crockery, etc. I found these stores better priced than some of the stores in Lisbon old town.  

The Carmo Church Ruins and Archaelogical museum:

This church was one of the most beautiful Gothic style temples in Lisbon. An earthquake in 1955 cause some serious damage to the building and destroyed most of its contents. Reconstruction stopped when religious orders were abolished in Portugal in 1843, . The building structure with its Gothic arches remain, the roofless central nave is open to the sky.

What once was the altar of a catholic church, now houses a museum. A small but interesting collection of artefacts are on display in the museum and date back to the 4 th century. The most interesting artefact I found was 2 mummies with hair intact! Beautiful architecture, including vault structures built in brick.

New World: A stroll through Gare do Oriente:

Designed by Architect and Engineer, Santiago Calatrava, the train station and link between the previous separated areas of the Olivais District, is found in the modern part of Lisbon. The train station was a must see for myself and my Architect friend on this trip. The terminal connects various modes of transport and is one of Europe’s most comprehensive transport nodes.

Calatrava does not disappoint with the slender, modern structure designs. A series of 5 rows of double metal and glass ‘trees’ form an interlocking roof that covers the upper level platforms. A beautiful sight to behold and space to be in. You can access the platforms via stairs or glass lifts from the upper levels without the need to purchase a ticket.

On the opposite side of the station you can find the Vasco Da Gama shopping mall. This is another building with unique architectural features and good views of the Targus River. It is located 5 minutes from the airport and 10 minutes from the city centre, accessible by various modes of transport.

Praça do Comércio:

Praça do Comércio or Terreiro do Paco, as it is locally known, is one of the largest plazas in Europe. Walk through the commercial street through the archway, to lead you to the Targus River. Traditional buildings lines 3 sides of the square. For a small fee, you can go to the viewing platform at the top of Arco da Rua Augusta, for views over the plaza. The plaza is perfect for late night strolls.

After Hours:

One of the most popular streets in Lisbon is Rua Nova do Carvalho, aka Pink street. The famous red-light district was part of the 2013 urban regeneration project. After the area underwent an overhaul, the street between the bars and clubs painted pink, and Pink Street was born. If clubbing and street parties are your scene, this is the best place to go.

Interesting gifts:

Ceramics:

Portugal is famous for its Azulejos tiles. Many historic buildings are cladded with them. You can buy vintage, traditional or modern hand painted tiles for use in your home or sold as souvenirs.

Canned Fish:

Canned Fish is popular in Portugal. There is much more than canned fish than sardines. Choose from Tuna, Anchovy, Octopus, Salmon, and they come in a variety of flavours. The city centre has dedicated canned fish shops where you can by these colourfully packaged fish. Perfect for a small unusual gift.

Cork:

Did you know Cork is one of Portugal’s largest exports? Other than cork bottle stoppers but you can find other unusual cork products in the city. Think umbrellas, bags, shoes and other household items.

Getting around:

We found 24-hour travel cards the most cost effective way to travel around the city. It is very easy to get around the old town and most attractions are within walking distance. There is so much to do in Lisbon, we barely scratched the surface when we where there. It helps if you decide beforehand what it is you want to do for the time you are visiting.

Where we stayed:

We stayed at the Jupiter Lisboa hotel. A modern hotel located in downtown Lisbon. The hotel boasts an indoor spa with pool, sauna and a well-equipped gym. With a rooftop bar with outdoor pool, you don’t have to leave the hotel to enjoy views of the city. The hotel is within walking distance of the to Campo Pequero and the metro station.

Getting to Lisbon:

We flew with British Airways from London. There are various low-cost airlines that flies to Lisbon, but they usually fly from the more remote airports and you can expect early morning or late-night flights.

Read more on my next post:

Look out for my next post on fabulous food in Lisbon. Until next time, Adventure Awaits.

Mrs. L.

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Karoo Topography:

Defined by its topography, which is mostly flat, the Karoo spans over more than 40% of South Africa’s landmass. It stretches over the Western, Northern and Eastern Cape. The Karoo landscape is defined by flat top hills and rocky outcrops spread over vast lands, which are covered in succulents and low scrub vegetation.

National Park:

The Karoo is home to the Tankwa National Park. The park is popular for its vast open spaces and natural beauty which can be appreciated by hiking, 4×4 driving,  game drives or just passing through. The Tankwa National Park is known for its birdlife and is a favourite with bird watchers locally and abroad.

Karoo Flora:

Some of the largest variety of succulents in the world, can be found in the Karoo. In wild flower season, various parts of the Karoo turns into colourful carpets of flowers.

Karoo Fauna:

The Karoo is known for sheep farming but there are countless other fauna found here. Some of which we encountered on our road trip, were mongoose, ground squirrels, buck and various species of birds.

Look to the skies for falcons. We spotted falcons hunting early morning and late evenings. Sometimes we would catch a quick glimpse of them perched on a telephone cable, scouting the area for prey. A sighting of some of the fastest birds in the world, is magnificent to watch, especially when swooping down when hunting.

The riverine rabbit is one of the most endangered mammal species in the world and it can only be found in the Karoo. We were fortunate enough to spot some when we were out stargazing. They have distinctive long ears and white circles around their eyes. There are very few photos of them and unfortunately there were way too fast for us to photograph!

The harsh Karoo environment is more suited for tough animals and scavengers. Crows appear to hrive in this area, especially with all the road kill on these roads.

Seasons in the Karoo:

The weather in the Karoo is extreme. We experienced below zero temperatures in late winter/spring, with it heating up to 20 degree Celsius during the day. It is a different type of cold that feels like it is penetrating your bones and I would avoid visiting during summer or winter, when the temperatures can become unbearable and visit during the mild seasons, spring and autumn. Make sure you pack for two seasons in a day when visiting!

Karoo towns:

Carnavon was our main base for visiting the Great Karoo. Some of the other towns we visited and stayed in on our Karoo road trip, were Nieuwoudtville, Calvinia, Williston, and Loxton. Each town has something unique to offer and you can find blog posts on these Karoo towns on my website.

AfrikaBurn:

AfrikaBurn is an official Burning Man regional event. This annual event takes place in the Tankwa National Park, perfect for experiencing the beauty of the Karoo. This community event transforms part of the Karoo into a temporary city of art, music, performance and culture.

Dark Skies:

The Karoo is known as one of the darkest places in South Africa, the low levels of light pollution makes if perfect for star gazing. The milky way can be clearly seen in this part of the Karoo and I tried my hand at astrophotography, as captured in the photo below.

Why visit the Karoo?

Some factors which attracts people to the area is the silence and tranquillity. It is a different environment which may shock the typical city slicker, like having no mobile phone reception! Some of the smaller towns can be explored within an hour. The slow pace forces one to relax. When I first arrived, I thought was going to be bored, but then the slow pace started growing on me. After four days of hiking and exploring vast open spaces, I started to appreciate the solace after unwinding.

First time visitors:

If you are keen to do a road trip to the Karoo, be prepared for long hours on somewhat rough roads. Fuel stations in the Karoo are few and far in between, so try to fill up in the closest town where possible. There is no mobile phone signal in some areas, so we downloaded offline maps if we needed directions! The shops are not as well stocked as in the cities, hence its best to bring any speciality items with you.

Expect beautiful landscapes as far as the eye can see and allow for extra time to take way too many photographs!

Until next time. Adventure Awaits.

Kim

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We head to Loxton mid-morning for an overnight stay. It is a short thirty-minute drive on an open road from Carnavon. There is not another vehicle in sight on this dusty Karoo road. Most people see Loxton through their rear-view mirror as they are passing by en-route to another destination.  The town has gone through a transformation over the past years, after it was flooded and rebuilt, and we were keen to see this picturesque Karoo gem.

Loxton hospitality:

The first thing we notice as we drive into town is the local hospitality. Locals are very friendly and go out of their way to assist you. It is a town where strangers greet you as they pass you in the street. Don’t be surprised if drivers wave to you as they drive by, a strange slight for a city slicker!

Die Rooi Granaat:

After a short drive, we arrive at our destination. We check in at the Rooi Granaat and have a bite to eat. The owner is very friendly and welcoming. She goes out of her way to assist us with a request. The guesthouse, shop and café, are all located on one adjoining property. We browse around the shop and find it stocks a variety of autographed books by Deon Meyer, who is a well-known Afrikaans novelist and has a house in town.

Walk about town:

After we checked into our room, we familiarise ourselves with the town. The main street, is lined with trees over 100 years old.

We take in the silence and the sounds of nature as we walk around town a second time, but it is cold. The temperature is close to zero degrees outside and our fingers are turning blue. We turn back to fetch gloves and warmer jackets, and head up to the top of the hill for a better vantage point. We are hoping to see the sunset and the town from the top.

The sunset is beautiful and worth the icy wind blowing. We get some good photos and head back to the guest house for a warm drink. We see a single horse on one of the properties, this is definitely a one horse town.

Activities in Loxton:

Loxton is small village and there is not a lot happening. It is home to an old Truck museum that features old trucks from the Second World War. There are some interesting displays around town.

Take a walk up the local hill for a view over the town and perfect for sunsets. There are photographic opportunities all around town, perfect for photographers. My husband and I enjoyed strolls through the town and photographing Karoo gems like windmills. Loxton is a very small town, and it will take you about 30 minutes to walk through town. We found some fossilized rock on the rocky path on the hill, which appear to be traces of river bed.

Karoo Vernacular Architecture:

Some of the appeal of visiting small Karoo towns are the unique Karoo vernacular architecture. Loxton is one of these towns, known for their historic houses. We found that the historic and other town houses in town are generally well maintained. Where houses in town were restored, they have been done in an authentic manner.

Riverine Rabbit:

Loxton is the headquarters for the riverine rabbit working group. This riverine rabbit can only be found in the Karoo. We were fortunate enough to spot some when we were out stargazing. The riverine rabbit is one of the most endangered mammal species in the world. They have distinctive long ears.

Small towns:

The town is so small that the general dealer only sells basic suppliers. It is best to bring whatever you need with you. There is no official petrol/fuel station, but you can buy fuel at the local general dealer/ co-op.

Star gazing:

Take a short drive out of town for dark skies and star gazing. You will be able to see the Milky Way clearly on a clear night in this part of the Karoo.

Until next time, more Karoo adventures await.

Kim

How to get to Loxton:

We drove to Loxton from Carnavon, as it only 60 kilometers away. It is located at a crossroads, in the Karoo. Depending on which route you take, it is about 600 to 700 kilometers from Cape Town, definitely off the beaten path!

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Van Rhyns Pass:

If you take the scenic route via the R27 to Nieuwoudtville, Van Rhyns Pass is one the attractions to experience before arriving at Nieuwoudtville.  It is listed as one of the top 10 passes in the Northern Cape. This beautifully engineered tarred pass forms part of the R27, located between Vanrhynsdorp and Nieuwoudtville. It snakes and winds its way over 9 kilometers and climbs 815 meters high to the summit. Van Rhyn’s pass offers spectacular views over the Knersvlakte plains.

Nieuwoudtville’s Quiver tree forest:

One of the main reasons we made Nieuwoudtville a stop on our road trip, as to view the quiver tree forest. The particular Quiver Tree Forest has the largest concentration of quiver trees in the southern hemisphere. It is the second largest quiver tree forest in the world. The largest quiver tree forest is located in Namibia. The forest is accessible to all as it is located on the side of the road (R357) to Loriesfontein, 5kms in from the Gannabos sign. It is located about 25 kilometers from Nieuwoudtville town.

The trees start to appear as you drive along the road. The trees blend in very well with the surrounding hills and the forest is quite unique. They grow high up on these hills, which is why you don’t notice them in the distance when you approach from the road.

Nieuwoudtville’s waterfall:

This waterfall is surprisingly unknown. It is located on the road to Loriesfontein, about 7 kms north of Nieuwoudtville town. It is free to access and open to the public.

The 90 m waterfall is spectacular to see, especially during heavy rains. There are 2 areas to view, the shallow pools above the waterfall, and the waterfall itself. Walk along the path and view the gorge below.

On the Flower Route:

When you visit in wild flower season, the town streets burst into colour with wild flowers popping up as far as the eye can see. The flowers were in full bloom in August when we visited. The number of flowers in blossom are weather dependent.

Hantam National Botanical Gardens:

Open all year, the botanical gardens consists of areas with short walking routes to view the flowers. There are two large areas within the gardens to view the wild flowers. Entry is R20 per adult.

Nieuwoudtville Wild flower reserve:

You can drive around the reserve to view the flowers. There is also a short hiking route that you can take to view different types of flowers behind a small kopie.

The Bulb Garden:

Nieuwoudtville’s bulb garden is open both in and out of flower season. Pick and purchase your own bulbs for planting at home if you would like to take a piece of Nieuwoudtville with you.

Sandstone buildings:

The town is known for its sandstone buildings. At the heart of the town is the Neo-Gothic style church, which dominates the cultural landscape of the town.

There are various sandstone building ruins are scattered outside town if you do a bit of exploring or speak to the locals to where they can be found. The Karoo is also known for its Corbel houses, and you will find these alongside the road (R27) leading to and from Carnarvon.

Grabbing a bite to eat:

We stopped for brunch at Die Nedersetting restaurant, which opens for breakfast in flower season. Skuinskoek Paleis offers delectable local treats such as pancakes and vetkoek. Local entrepreneurs at Nieuwoudtville Waterfalls make roosterbrood (bread cooked on a grill over an open fire) and other treats which you can purchased at their stall at the entrance to the waterfall.

Protea Motors:

The only petrol station in town. Fill up on fuel and see some of the vintage motorbikes and other interesting things to see at Protea Motors.

Other Outdoor activities:

Outdoor activities such as hiking, mountain biking, 4 x 4 and star gazing are popular in this area. The Karoo is known for its dark skies, which makes it idyllic for star gazing and astrophotography. If you have time to drive to or stop in nearby towns, Calvinia is worth a stopover. Read more about this town here.

Best time to visit:

The Karoo is a semi-arid area, known for its extreme climates. We visited in the heart of winter, and temperatures dropped close to zero at night. During the day, temperatures reached high 20’s, so you have to dress for 2 seasons in a day!

Winters are extremely cold and summers very hot. Temperatures can reach mid to high 30’s in summer and it is a different dry heat in that you will only experience in this area. I recommend visiting a the end of winter or in spring so you can see the flowers in bloom.

Nieuwoudtville is atown to visit so you can unwind, watch time pass by and star gaze. For more information on the Northern Cape and Nieuwoudtville, visit the Northern Cape tourism website. Until next time. Adventure Awaits!

Kim

How to get to Nieuwoudtville:

Nieuwoudtville lies between Vanryhnsdorp and Calvinia, just of the R27. It is located about 350 kilometers from Cape Town and will take you about four hours to get to there. There are so many smaller towns on route and in the surrounding areas to appreciate, you will probably need more time to explore the area if you are driving through for the day.

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While there is no hustle and bustle in this town, it has its own unusual appeal. Quaint artistic finds and very friendly locals adds to the appeal of stopping here when exploring the great Karoo.

Calvinia’s Large Postbox: Could it be the largest in the world?

A post box put this small Karoo town, Calvinia, back on the travel map again a few years ago. ( When the post box was officially opened.)  Towering at 6.17 meters high, with a circumference of 9.34 meters, locals claim it’s the largest post box in the world. Once an old water tank and converted to the town’s largest post box, it has become one of the biggest attractions in the town. The red towering box is located on the side of the main road and is open to all passer-by’s.

All letters and postcards posted here receive a special flower stamp. You don’t have to be a giant to post a letter here though, it has a normal height post box opening built into the side of the larger box.

Calvinia’s Victorian era and Cape Dutch buildings:

The town has some good examples of Victorian and Edwardian buildings, which you can see if you drive around town. Due to the town being so small, the houses are quite easy to find. Die Hantam Huis is an example of Cape Dutch Architecture. The building also houses a museum and serves traditional food at the restaurant.

Calvinia’s Eclectic curiosities:

Located in Stigling Street, also known as the “Art street”, is where you will find the rustic art of Calvinia. The street front, pavement and courtyard displays are changed over the years to keep it interesting for visitors. Other than the art on display, there is an onsite shop/bakery and a guesthouse if you would like to overnight in town.

Calvinia museum:

The town’s museum is housed in the old Jewish synagogue. You can gain insight into sheep farming from the museum displays, which the Karoo is known for. It houses interesting artefacts and a stuffed merino sheep with an unusually long fleece. This particular sheep got lost and its fleece grew to quite a length for the years it was wondering on its own. If you would like to book any tours in town, the local tourist office is be found inside the museum building.

The Golden Steam Age:

Reminiscence of a golden steam age, an old steam locomotive forever rests on the grounds of Calvinia Museum gardens. The locomotive was part of a railway network that transported agricultural goods on the Cape Town to Johannesburg network route. Following the route closure, the steam locomotive was withdrawn from service in 1977 and as a result, is stationed in town since.  The abandoned railway line can still be seen when driving from Calvinia to Carnavon. The railway tracks and line still appear to be in a good condition, due to the dry Karoo air.

Spring flowers:

When you visit in wild flower season, the many roads that lead to Calvinia, are lined with wild flowers. The flowers were in full bloom in the Northern Cape when we visited this area at the beginning of August. The number of flowers in blossom annually are weather dependent. The flowers do lessen the closer you drive to Williston town. You have a better chance of seeing more flowers driving between Nieuwoudtville and Calvinia or ClanWilliam and Calvinia.

Star gazing:

The Karoo is known for its dark skies, perfect for star gazing. Drive a few kilometers out of town for complete darkness, perfect for star gazing and astrophotography.

Best time to visit:

We visited in the heart of winter, and temperatures dropped to below zero at night. The Karoo is a semi-arid area, known for its extreme climates. Winters are extremely cold and summers and very hot. Temperatures can reach mid to high 30’s in summer and it is a different dry heat in that you will only experience in this area. Hence, visiting in autumn and spring would therefore be the better choice if you prefer more comfortable temperatures.

Above all, Calvinia is a town to visit so you can unwind, watch time pass by and star gaze. Friendly locals will make you feel more than welcome in their town. For more information on Calvinia and the Karoo, visit the Northern Cape visitors website.

Until next time. Adventure Awaits!

Kim

How to get to Calvinia:

Calvinia is located about 400 kilometers from Cape Town. It will take you about four and a half hours to get to there from Cape Town. There are so many smaller towns on route to appreciate, so it may take you longer to get there. We stopped at ClanWilliam and Nieuwoudtville before arriving at Calvinia. Depending on which route you take, Vanhryn’s pass offers spectacular views as is listed as one of the top passes in the Northern Cape.

Tips:

The towns are few and far in between in the Karoo. Above all, keep and eye on your fuel gauge and fill up when you pass through a town as you do not want to run out of fuel and get stuck on the road! You may find some of the shops and fuel stations in the small towns closed on Sunday, therefore try to plan your stops before if possible.

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Flower Season:

Flower season starts in July and ends in September. The number of blooming flowers are weather dependant. The amount of rain, wind and temperatures all impact how good the flower season will be. The best time to view them is mid-August to mid-September. The areas up north, is hotter, so the flowers are in full blossom in August, whereas the flowers in the southern areas will blossom until September.

My favourite areas to see wild flowers:

The best area to see the largest spread of wild flowers in South Africa, is Namaqualand, in the Northern Cape. The Skilpad and Namaqua National park is one of the largest areas to view the flowers. Namaqua National park has around “3500 species of flowers, of which 1000 species some can only be found in this area and no where else in the world”. (experience northern cape)

The next flower hot spot is Nieuwoudtville, which is also the bulb capital of the world. There are designated areas to view an array of flower species, the Nieuwoudtville wild flower reserve (free entry) and Hantam National Botanical Garden (R20 per adult entry fee). We found some of the best areas to see the flowers are around town. There are carpets of vibrant daisies everywhere you drive, from the side walks to farmlands. The land becomes a carpet of vibrant colours for everyone to enjoy.

Closer to Cape Town, the flowers can be viewed at the West Coast National Park, in the Western Cape. The northern section of the park, Postberg Flower reserve, is a hotspot for Capetonians to enjoy this phenomenon. There are game and tortoises to view in this section of the national park. Visitors have also spotted whales from Postberg, so look out for some when you are done enjoying the flowers.

That’s so Darling:

Darling is part of the Cape floral region and hosts an annual wild flower show. This year is takes place on the 14 to 16 September 2018. There are other attractions like the Evita Perron theatre and vineyards to visit.

Rooibos Route:

As the flowers are weather dependant, be prepared to drive further afield to find flowers if there are no flowers in the area you choose to visit. Wild flowers can also be found in the Cederberg area. Other activities in this area are Rooibos farms visits, tea tasting at the Rooibos tea house, hiking or viewing rock art. Clanwilliam hosts a wild flower show and there is a botanical garden to view flowers. Check with the local tourism office to find out more.

Wild flowers on the road to the Karoo:

We also saw flowers on the road from Nieuwoudtville to Calvinia and from Matjiesfontein to Sutherland. The further north we travelled, the further apart the towns were, so there were longer distances to travel to see the flowers. Unfortunately, there were no flowers in Calvinia when we visited mid-August, as there was not enough rain in this area.

Plan your wild flower trip:

Call the local tourist information centre for information on whether there are flowers before you go. We found the locals in the small towns, friendly and hospitable, are more than willing to assist. It is best to travel from north to south, with the sun behind you when viewing the flowers, so plan accordingly.

Tips for viewing wild flowers:

• It is best to visit on a sunny day. The flowers will not open if it is raining or the temperature drops below about 18 degrees.
• The best viewing times are between 10h30am and 4pm. Arrive early to avoid crowds. On a sunny days (weekends), the West Coast National Park becomes very busy, as it is located so close to the city. In peak times, you can queue in your car more than an hour to get into the park.
• Try not to step on the flowers/plants.
• Please do not pick the flowers, they are there for everyone to enjoy.
• While some wildflower nature reserves have no entry fees, some do have an entrance fee. Take cash as card paying facilities are not always available.
• Take drinking water, as there are not always shops close by.
• Do not get stuck without fuel! We made sure we had enough fuel, as the further north we drove, the further apart the towns and less facilities available.

Until next time. Don’t forget to stop and smell the flowers!

Adventure Awaits

Kim

All images taken by and copyright of @InSearchofChocolate

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You will be spoilt for choice in this seaside resort. destination What makes Swakopmund unique is that it you can go from desert to coast in a matter of minutes. The city boasts an array of activities for all ages and interests.

Traces of the old Harbour:

Swakopmund was the main port in the area during the colonial period. The jetty and historic landmark, which was nearly taken back by the seas, can still be enjoyed by all, after its restoration a few years back! There are restaurants housed within the jetty buildings. We had dinner at the famous Jetty restaurant and landmark not too be missed in Swakopmund. It is perfect for a romantic dinner as you can watch the sunset from your table.

The original working Lighthouse is still a well know landmark in Swakopmund. The original version was built in 1903. The light can be seen 33 kilometers into sea and saved many a ship from the treacherous Skeleton Coast.

German Historical Heritage:

Swakopmund is rich in Architectural history, which date back to the late 1880’s. There are still signs of colonialist architecture, with its German styled buildings in the city centre. Many of the buildings are still standing and today. These include the Old Prison, the Hohenzollern Building, Woermannhaus and the Lighthouse. A small part of locals in the town still speak German, when I closed my eyes for a second, I could be in Germany.

German influence in Swakopmund:

The German influence is not only found in the architecture, but in the food as well. Local stores sell traditional German delicacies including bread, meats, cheeses, beers and sweet treats. You even find German imported household items in certain supermarkets, like the local Spar and the German Grocer.

Chocolate:

Where do I begin? They stock some Lindt and other brands found in Germany. I even found this Christmas chocolate in the past, which I normally only found in Germany. Variety of Lindt which you find in Europe can be found at the local Spar. Needless to say, I stocked up on Swiss and German chocolate.

Activities in and around Swakopmund:

You can choose from an array of activities in this city, where it be strolls on the beach, going on a boat trip or something more adventurous. The adventurous activities include quad biking, sand boarding on the local sand dunes, camel rides, boat cruises, hot air ballooning over the desert, just to name a few. For a different experience of Swakopmund and the natural landscapes it has to offer, take to the skies and see the beauty unfold as you rise above the city.  There are flights available from Swakopmund to the famous Sossusvlei.

Attractions close by:

Dune 7 is the highest dune in Namibia. It is located close to Walvis Bay International Airport. Be sure to climb the dune early morning or late afternoon as it gets very hot during the day.

Looking for otherworldly landscapes, then this moon landscape is not too be missed. It is only about 30 minutes’ drive from Swakopmund. Namibia is filled with areas of unusual natural beauty and this landscape was one that stood out for me.

Goanikontes Oasis and rest camp is located within the moonscape area. Visiting an oasis in the middle of the desert is a bit surreal. It is green, lush and a completely unexpected find in the desert!

Spitzkoppe is one of the most striking rock spires in Namibia. It is located on the road between Namibia and Windhoek. Unfortunately we did not have enough time to visit this natural wonder and have added it to our bucket list for the next visit!

Until next time:

Swakopmund has become one of my favourite cities to visit and whenever I travel to Namibia and I always try to spend a few days here if I can. Until next time, Adventure awaits.

Kim

How to get to Swakopmund:

Fly to Walvis Bay International Airport, which is the closest airport, or Windhoek airport as an alternative. It is approximately a 40 minute drive from Walvis Bay International Airport to Swakopmund.

Where I stayed:

I stayed at the Swakopmund Sands Hotel. The hotel is located close to the beach and is perfect for strolls to the jetty and exploring the beachfront.

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